GOING out late isn’t really a thing in Latvian capital Riga. In fact, most bars shut at 10pm.
But the nightlife is far from what makes this city special, as I learned on a recent visit.
It’s the fabulously eclectic buildings of the cobbled old town with a mix of stepped gables, pointed spires, pastel-coloured walls and half- timbered facades.
And the unique grub that blends German and Russian influences to create delicious and hearty dishes that leave you yearning for more.
It’s not just me who has fallen in love with this stunning city.
British Airways launched its new winter route from Heathrow to Riga last year and the destination has proved such a hit that flights are being increased to one a week for this season, starting on Monday.
A strategic port town, sitting on the Baltic Sea on Latvia’s west coast, Riga only gained full independence in 1991.
Before that, it was fought over by nearby countries for centuries.
This history has given rise to a wealth of fascinating architecture, from medieval to Gothic, Renaissance and brutalist — something you will notice the minute you start walking around.
The city centre boasts more than 800 art nouveau buildings, dating from the early 20th Century — each as intricately detailed as the last.
Perhaps the most breathtaking examples line Albert Street and Elizabeth Street.
I found myself zig-zagging back and forth across the roads to try to take in every elaborate element, from statues of Atlas holding up his globe, to young women with tumbling locks, and even rudimentary robots.
This is the other great thing about Riga — you can stroll its peaceful streets with ease because, like the rest of Latvia, it has no hills. Little wonder locals jokingly refer to their country as Flatvia.
There is one place in the city that requires a steep climb, though, if you’re up to the challenge. And that’s one of Riga’s most impressive churches, the 13th-century St Peter’s.
At 400ft high, its once-coppery spire, is Riga’s highest point. But as soon I was reassured I could reach the top by elevator, rather than by puffing up hundreds of stairs, I was in — and especially when tickets cost only nine euros.
The panoramic view is absolutely worth the cash (or climb).
Beetroot soup
From there you can see the wide Daugava river which cuts through the city, the shiny golden onion domes of the Nativity of Christ Orthodox cathedral and the elegant columns of the neo-classical National Opera House.
I also spotted modern buildings such as the silver, pyramid-shaped National Library and the 27-storey, cylindrical Saules Akmens office tower.
And if you have a keen eye, you might even see the five U-shaped pavilions that make up the city’s Central Market, a great spot for sampling local food.
Each long, low building in the market is dedicated to a different type of food, from meat to fish or veg, and hearty dishes are the order of the day here.
I was keen to sample as many local delights as possible, including one of the most popular traditional meals — the somewhat unappetising-sounding grey peas with bacon.
It transpires said peas are actually brown, not grey, but don’t let that put you off as this savoury dish certainly carries flavour.
The best places to try local food are the city’s cantines
Laura Millar
And you can see why the warming meal is popular, when temperatures can fall to -20C in winter.
Don’t miss out on karbonade, either, a delicious pork schnitzel, or beetroot-based soup borscht.
The best places to try local food are the city’s cantines — essentially cheap and cheerful canteen-style restaurants — look out for the Lido chain (lido.lv/en).
And it’s worth timing your visit for when the city’s popular and award-winning Christmas markets are in full swing.
They kick off in early December, and you can nibble on enough marzipan, biscuits and roast- ed nuts to keep you full all winter.
One thing is for sure, you will end up leaving Riga, as I did, hungry for more.
GO: RIGA
GETTING THERE: From Monday BA will fly daily from London Heathrow to Riga from £73 return. See britishairways.com.
STAYING THERE: Two nights’ B&B at the Grand Poet Hotel by Semarah is from £199pp including flights from Heathrow in January 2025. Book by October 31. See ba.com/holidays.
OUT & ABOUT: A guided, backstage tour of the National Opera House starts at 15 euros per person. See opera.lv/en. For more information about Riga, see liveriga.com.
