Australia’s sharpest food critic has divided his followers by ‘dancing on the grave’ of a beloved local cheese maker.
John Lethlean – who has been writing restaurant and food reviews for major Australian newspapers and magazines for more than two decades – has taken a closer look at King Island Dairy in his latest post.
The 120-year-old Tasmanian cheese shop will close permanently by the middle of next year, Canadian owner Saputo announced last month, leaving 58 employees out in the cold.
The company’s future has been under a cloud for ten months after Saputo launched a strategic review of the factory that produced gourmet cheeses such as brie and blue vein.
King Island Dairy’s operations began in the early 20th century and are one of the largest employers on the small island, home to 1,600 people.
Lethlean described King Island Dairy’s brie as ‘rubbish’ and ‘without any character’ in his scathing post.
“The recently announced demise of King Island Dairy should not have surprised anyone who loves cheese,” Lethlean began his latest mission.
‘The cheeses have always been rubbish and this so-called brie that I have here… has no character at all, unless you are just looking for industrial salt in a soft, white mold cheese.
Australia’s notoriously acid-tongued food critic has divided his followers by ‘dancing on the grave’ of a beloved local cheesemaker
John Lethlean – who has been writing restaurant and food reviews for major Australian newspapers and magazines for more than two decades – has taken a closer look at King Island Dairy in his latest post. The short and sharp shot was placed next to a rather unappetizing photo of a piece of cheese sweating into crumpled aluminum foil
‘Terrible.’
The short and sharp shot was placed next to a rather unappetizing photo of a piece of cheese sweating in crumpled aluminum foil.
Lethlean divided his fans with his stinking review.
Premium smoked fish brand Bellarine Smokehouse poked some Swiss-sized holes in its comments.
The 120-year-old Tasmanian cheese shop will close permanently by the middle of next year, Canadian owner Saputo announced last month, leaving 58 employees out in the cold.
‘Dancing on people’s graves at the demise of a company that employed half an island is really not a good look. “I was raised to believe that if you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything,” the Melbourne business account wrote.
‘It’s the largest employer on a very small island…what do you expect people to do for a living now?
“Maybe you should ask about our federal government’s rules on foreign ownership of primary producers. That discussion would be much more relevant…’
Lethlean retired his mighty pen from The Australian in 2022 and subsequently found himself in very hot water for crude comments he made about a waitress in 2023
Lethlean divided his fans with his stinking review of the cheese
The comment received 46 likes, but Lethlean also had support for his opinion.
“I’m so glad to hear you say it. I always thought it was lamer than something lame which is very lame indeed,” one person wrote.
‘The wordiness of this post is also a depressing reminder of how I look forward to reading Lethlean in the Aus.[tralian] about food and there’s a void right now that doesn’t look like it’s going to be filled anytime soon,” added a diehard fan of his.
Meanwhile, a third asked Lethlean: “Is this a review of yourself?”
Lethlean retired his mighty pen at The Australian in 2022 and subsequently found himself in very hot water for crude comments he made about a waitress in 2023.
“And the maitre d’/meet and greeter is wearing an outfit that threatens to expose more than just her inexperience as she bends over to set a table,” Lethlean wrote last year in a post detailing his review of promoted a Perth restaurant in Delicious.
He was forced to temporarily delete his Instagram after widespread backlash from the hospitality industry and the general public.
Meanwhile, Saputo Chief Operating Officer Leanne Cutts said the decision to close the iconic Tasmanian business had been difficult.
She said “every possible option” has been considered, but closure is the most feasible way to strengthen Saputo’s competitive position in a changing market.
“As King Island Dairy’s historic roots are deeply entrenched in the region, it was hoped that the strategic review would identify a potential buyer for the facility,” Ms Cutts said.
‘It is a unique brand, with a plant that is almost 100 years old.
“(Although) King Island Dairy products hold a nostalgic place in the hearts of Australians, the brand has not maintained its position in today’s ultra-competitive food industry.”
King Island Dairy’s operations began in the early 20th century and are one of the largest employers on the island, with approximately 1,600 employees
Saputo bought King Island Dairy in 2019 as part of its purchase of Lion Dairy & Drinks’ cheese business.
It confirmed that 58 workers would be affected, but ‘redeployment opportunities’ would be identified where possible.
Ms Cutts said Saputo would work with dairy farmers and the wider island community.
Tasmanian Premier Jeremy Rockliff said Saputo’s decision was deeply disappointing.
“We are providing immediate support to the company’s employees, farmers and the wider island community,” he said.
Mr Rockliff said the state government was willing to work with the company in a further effort to find a new operator.
Saputo describes itself as one of the ten largest dairy processors in the world.
King Island has a unique climate based on its location, offering lush cow grazing and unusually sweet milk.
Saputo also owns Cheer Cheese, formerly known as Coon Cheese, after buying most of Warrnambool Cheese and Butter a decade ago.
